This was a surprise.
I grabbed a rod of what I thought was a light brown - turns out it was 440 - Red Roof Tile.
Worked on top of Effetre Intense black - I got some really interesting patterns and webbing, and some metallic sheen.
Definitely cool.
So I made a bunch of 'em. ;-)
Wednesday, December 23, 2015
Sunday, November 22, 2015
Effetre 410 Butternut Lime
Everyone kept saying to me - "oh - that looks like Apple Blush" - and yes - it does share a resemblance to Apple Blush - and is one down in the numbering system Butternut Lime is certainly a shock when it comes out of the kiln!
The wild-lime-green rod strikes up to much more of an orangey colour than I expected.
You can see from the pressed patterns and the sides of the beads that it can stay bright green - or that it can blush to shades of yellow and orange where it it re-heated. Truly - a combo of lime and butternut squash colours.
The spiral beads are made in a bead press - which seems to work very nicely with the multi-colour nature of the glass.
Fun, eh?
The wild-lime-green rod strikes up to much more of an orangey colour than I expected.
You can see from the pressed patterns and the sides of the beads that it can stay bright green - or that it can blush to shades of yellow and orange where it it re-heated. Truly - a combo of lime and butternut squash colours.
The spiral beads are made in a bead press - which seems to work very nicely with the multi-colour nature of the glass.
Fun, eh?
Friday, November 13, 2015
I made this - and I have the scars to prove it ...
Don't forget - when people ask you if you really made those beads - you can always say - "I have the scars to prove it!"
Recent cabochon - an aborted and unimpressive attempt as something opaly looking - and a truly impressive blister (now 3 days old) from catching the flame end of the mandrel when it dropped.
Ouch.
Sunday, October 18, 2015
Effetre 296 Avorio Pervincal and Effetre 294 Avorio Viola
Honestly - I can't tell these two apart. Not that every bead comes out the same, but rather - there is a lot of variation in both, and the two seem to average out.
Both are highly streaky ivories with a lot of variation in them.
First up Avorio Pervincal
Cabochon - quite light in colour.
Three self coloured spacers - two came out a lot darker.
And here is the Avorio Viola. You might think it looks darker - but notice that light coloured one on the bottom mandrel on the left. What are we to make of that? (Notice the extreme reaction to the turquoise, btw?)
Viola on the top and Pervincal on the bottom. Could it just be a case of how long it is heated as to how dark it gets?
Anyway - until I understand otherwise - I'm going to treat them as interchangeable. That said - I love them - streaky and variable is my kind of ivory! I will be stocking up on these!
Both are highly streaky ivories with a lot of variation in them.
First up Avorio Pervincal
Cabochon - quite light in colour.
Three self coloured spacers - two came out a lot darker.
And here is the Avorio Viola. You might think it looks darker - but notice that light coloured one on the bottom mandrel on the left. What are we to make of that? (Notice the extreme reaction to the turquoise, btw?)
Viola on the top and Pervincal on the bottom. Could it just be a case of how long it is heated as to how dark it gets?
Anyway - until I understand otherwise - I'm going to treat them as interchangeable. That said - I love them - streaky and variable is my kind of ivory! I will be stocking up on these!
Thursday, October 15, 2015
Effetre 284 Dark Avorio Nero
Avorio Nero is very dark - like a streaky tiger eye - but is actually a transparent - in a very dark amber - so if you dilute it - use it thin over clear or white, you get to see the actual colour.
See - these two self coloured spacers might as well be an opaque brown.
But over a clear and ivory base - it is lovely! It
I especially like it over white or ivory - but it might be worth trying over a pale opaque yellow too.
Over Avorio Perc. and combined with Avorio Dark Lapis.
See - these two self coloured spacers might as well be an opaque brown.
But over a clear and ivory base - it is lovely! It
I especially like it over white or ivory - but it might be worth trying over a pale opaque yellow too.
Over Avorio Perc. and combined with Avorio Dark Lapis.
Tuesday, October 13, 2015
Effetre 292 Avorio Medium Lapis
Comparing the Avorio Medium Lapis with the Dark and Light - I have to say - I think the Medium shows more of the Ivory, in addition to being a medium Lapis.
While I like the darker, richer colour of the Av. Dark Lapis better - I definitely like the striations and patterns and interactions here too.
All three variations are winners in my book!
Saturday, September 26, 2015
Another Look: Avorio ...
Damn. I really like this glass. The blue is the Avorio Dark Lapis, the middle ivory is Avorio Viola or Percinval (sp?) - I can't tell them apart, and the tiger stripe sky is Avorio Nero, over a base of white.
Damn.
The
Damn.
The
Thursday, September 24, 2015
Book: The Starving Artist's Lampwork Project Book
I can't recommend this book.
While this book is described as:
The Starving Artist's Lampwork Project Book includes 18 illustrated step-by-step lampworked glass projects for the beginning to intermediate lampworker. Starting with a brief tutorial of basic lampworking methods, the techniques and projects included here were originally created for use in rehabilitation centers for soldiers returning from overseas after World War II. Also known as scientific glassblowing, lampwork is a method of manipulating glass rods and tubes in a gas torch flame to construct a variety of practical and artistic items. No furnace is required, and the necessary tools and materials can be readily obtained at reasonable cost.
You actually get a better sense of the book from the description inside the front cover:
The Starving Artist's Lampwork Project Book includes 95 pages, filled with lampwork projects that originally appeared in a series of training manuals that were created during World War II for use in the rehabilitation of veterans returning from military service overseas.
Each project includes a list of all the materials required and detailed, step-by-step illustrated instructions for creating your own lampworked masterpieces.
We've digitized the illustrations from one of those rare, original volumes, enlarged and cleaned them up where necessary, and reset most of the original text. We also updated the contents and added a new section of resources for today's lampworker.
This book is effectively a reproduction of a glass working book from the late 40's, early 50's. And that's exactly what it looks like. And reads like. And while it might have value for scholars who are researching WWII rehabilitation programs - I think those people (both of them) would be better served by tracking down the original copies.
If you have never picked up a glass bead or seen a torch - this book is not going to help. I thought I might find some ideas for projects that have fallen by the way side and could be resurrected, but, no. If you have, it's still not going to help.
If you must buy it - bear it mind that it is cheaper on the publishers' website than it is on Amazon. But 30 seconds of googling and a trip to youtube are going to get you way better info than you will find here. Give it a miss. Sorry.
While this book is described as:
The Starving Artist's Lampwork Project Book includes 18 illustrated step-by-step lampworked glass projects for the beginning to intermediate lampworker. Starting with a brief tutorial of basic lampworking methods, the techniques and projects included here were originally created for use in rehabilitation centers for soldiers returning from overseas after World War II. Also known as scientific glassblowing, lampwork is a method of manipulating glass rods and tubes in a gas torch flame to construct a variety of practical and artistic items. No furnace is required, and the necessary tools and materials can be readily obtained at reasonable cost.
You actually get a better sense of the book from the description inside the front cover:
The Starving Artist's Lampwork Project Book includes 95 pages, filled with lampwork projects that originally appeared in a series of training manuals that were created during World War II for use in the rehabilitation of veterans returning from military service overseas.
Each project includes a list of all the materials required and detailed, step-by-step illustrated instructions for creating your own lampworked masterpieces.
We've digitized the illustrations from one of those rare, original volumes, enlarged and cleaned them up where necessary, and reset most of the original text. We also updated the contents and added a new section of resources for today's lampworker.
This book is effectively a reproduction of a glass working book from the late 40's, early 50's. And that's exactly what it looks like. And reads like. And while it might have value for scholars who are researching WWII rehabilitation programs - I think those people (both of them) would be better served by tracking down the original copies.
If you have never picked up a glass bead or seen a torch - this book is not going to help. I thought I might find some ideas for projects that have fallen by the way side and could be resurrected, but, no. If you have, it's still not going to help.
If you must buy it - bear it mind that it is cheaper on the publishers' website than it is on Amazon. But 30 seconds of googling and a trip to youtube are going to get you way better info than you will find here. Give it a miss. Sorry.
Tuesday, September 22, 2015
Eye Candy
Woohoo - I actually made some jewelry for ME! I know - pretty radical.
Two bracelets in beads that I made a while back, and found while I was looking for beads to put out for sale. I had already pre-selected them and put them aside separately - so what the heck.
Lots of high-silver colours and reduction here. The opal beads with the reduced trails of Ekho (?) are pretty cool. (Right side.)
I remember making the pebbly shaped beads (back half) with a flattish side - thinking that they would be nice in a bracelet that way.
Two bracelets in beads that I made a while back, and found while I was looking for beads to put out for sale. I had already pre-selected them and put them aside separately - so what the heck.
Lots of high-silver colours and reduction here. The opal beads with the reduced trails of Ekho (?) are pretty cool. (Right side.)
I remember making the pebbly shaped beads (back half) with a flattish side - thinking that they would be nice in a bracelet that way.
Sunday, September 20, 2015
More on Cabochons
Early in the year - I picked up this tool from CGBead Rollers. They had a booth, and I had an opportunity to buy some tools in person, which is fun, because you buy things you would never buy online.
In particular - they told me that it was an experimental item, a special request, and given that I don't see it on the website, if you want one too - you are also going to have to request one.
Anyway - as I mentioned a couple of days ago - I have been making cabochons, but keeping the back flat and stable is always the challenge. This - I thought to myself - could solve that little problem.
It has 3 slots, to accommodate the size of mandrel or punty that you are using.
But having used the Jelveh Cabochon maker - I suddenly had an idea. Why not use a marble mold to shape the FRONT of the cabochon (I had been using gravity, surface tension, the natural flow of the glass to make my dome shape) and use this for the back.
So with the marble mold (or in this case - a round bead mold) flat on the table, I pointed my molten gather of glass down into the cavity that best fit the glass I had melted, and rotating it a little and keeping it centred, pressed down the back with the slotted marver.
As you can see in this re-enactment - it worked pretty good!
I'm quite excited about these - because these are a much deeper dome - I just find the more rounded shape more beautiful.
And the size is still manageable for normal people who haven't yet come to believe that 40 pound jewelry is desirable. And of course - this works with any cavity type mold that you have. It's the same idea as a bead press, but the orientation is different, and the emphasis is on the flat back instead of the bead shape.
So woohoo! Inspired by the cabochon tool - but off in a new direction! Tres kewel!
In particular - they told me that it was an experimental item, a special request, and given that I don't see it on the website, if you want one too - you are also going to have to request one.
Anyway - as I mentioned a couple of days ago - I have been making cabochons, but keeping the back flat and stable is always the challenge. This - I thought to myself - could solve that little problem.
It has 3 slots, to accommodate the size of mandrel or punty that you are using.
But having used the Jelveh Cabochon maker - I suddenly had an idea. Why not use a marble mold to shape the FRONT of the cabochon (I had been using gravity, surface tension, the natural flow of the glass to make my dome shape) and use this for the back.
So with the marble mold (or in this case - a round bead mold) flat on the table, I pointed my molten gather of glass down into the cavity that best fit the glass I had melted, and rotating it a little and keeping it centred, pressed down the back with the slotted marver.
As you can see in this re-enactment - it worked pretty good!
I'm quite excited about these - because these are a much deeper dome - I just find the more rounded shape more beautiful.
And the size is still manageable for normal people who haven't yet come to believe that 40 pound jewelry is desirable. And of course - this works with any cavity type mold that you have. It's the same idea as a bead press, but the orientation is different, and the emphasis is on the flat back instead of the bead shape.
So woohoo! Inspired by the cabochon tool - but off in a new direction! Tres kewel!
Friday, September 18, 2015
Cabochons - Cabochon masher tool
I picked up this cabochon mashing tool, Jelveh's Cabachon (sic) Maker - I was browsing Etsy - looking for something else entirely - of course.
I have been making cabochon-y type objects for awhile, and it is not hard to do, but keeping the back flat and stable can be a little frustrating. So when I saw this - it was - "I have to have that ..." .
When it arrived, I realized it was quite a bit smaller than I had anticipated - probably because I have a collection of Jim Moore's magnificent mashers - which are all very large. So that was pretty much what I had in my head.
You can see that it is a flat masher with a cut-out on one side for the mandrel, and ...
a concave, half-lentil masher on the other.
Here it is with the ubiquitous Windex bottle for size comparison.
It's function is to make cabochons on the end of a mandrel. Without the glass punty - you spend less time farting around separating them, and they are much thinner. (No reason you couldn't add a glass loop and turn them into pendants - just sayin'.)
On the left - Dark Fossil. On the right, random left-over high-silver twistie.
These two below are made on a loop of stainless steel wire, instead of a mandrel (I wanted the wire attached for use after.) These are a little irregular in shape - with the doubled wires on the back, they are a little harder to rotate smoothly.
Shots of the backs, two on wires, and two on mandrels.
It only took me a couple of cabs to realize that rotating the mandrel while gently mashing/shaping gave me better results - instead of having a ridge on the back (see left most and right most above) where the glass oozes through the mandrel access slot.
The metal is not brass as this photo appears to indicate - that's a reflection.
Better shot of the best one so far.
And the back after pulling off the mandrel. Yes - I used a dipped mandrel.
While the masher is smaller than I anticipated, and probably smaller than I would have requested had I been specifying it, it does actually make a nice, manageable size cab. That would make a nice ring.
Here is another one - made on a single wire. I coiled the end of the wire to catch more of the glass and make the connection stronger.
From the bottom, you can see the coil. A wire sticking straight into the cab, given the shallowness of it, didn't seem too secure. The coil gives the wire more surface area to hang onto.
So, overall - I'm pretty happy with it. It's well made, the spring action in the handle is adequate, the two parts come together to be parallel at the point of closure - which is exactly where you would want it for this. The concave part is beautifully polished. Overall - this is a win.
I would probably still want a larger size if they had it, with a deeper cup. But that is just me. More is more!
Tool is available on Etsy here, or ask your favourite glass tool store if they can carry it.
I have been making cabochon-y type objects for awhile, and it is not hard to do, but keeping the back flat and stable can be a little frustrating. So when I saw this - it was - "I have to have that ..." .
When it arrived, I realized it was quite a bit smaller than I had anticipated - probably because I have a collection of Jim Moore's magnificent mashers - which are all very large. So that was pretty much what I had in my head.
You can see that it is a flat masher with a cut-out on one side for the mandrel, and ...
a concave, half-lentil masher on the other.
Here it is with the ubiquitous Windex bottle for size comparison.
It's function is to make cabochons on the end of a mandrel. Without the glass punty - you spend less time farting around separating them, and they are much thinner. (No reason you couldn't add a glass loop and turn them into pendants - just sayin'.)
On the left - Dark Fossil. On the right, random left-over high-silver twistie.
These two below are made on a loop of stainless steel wire, instead of a mandrel (I wanted the wire attached for use after.) These are a little irregular in shape - with the doubled wires on the back, they are a little harder to rotate smoothly.
Shots of the backs, two on wires, and two on mandrels.
It only took me a couple of cabs to realize that rotating the mandrel while gently mashing/shaping gave me better results - instead of having a ridge on the back (see left most and right most above) where the glass oozes through the mandrel access slot.
The metal is not brass as this photo appears to indicate - that's a reflection.
Better shot of the best one so far.
And the back after pulling off the mandrel. Yes - I used a dipped mandrel.
While the masher is smaller than I anticipated, and probably smaller than I would have requested had I been specifying it, it does actually make a nice, manageable size cab. That would make a nice ring.
Here is another one - made on a single wire. I coiled the end of the wire to catch more of the glass and make the connection stronger.
From the bottom, you can see the coil. A wire sticking straight into the cab, given the shallowness of it, didn't seem too secure. The coil gives the wire more surface area to hang onto.
So, overall - I'm pretty happy with it. It's well made, the spring action in the handle is adequate, the two parts come together to be parallel at the point of closure - which is exactly where you would want it for this. The concave part is beautifully polished. Overall - this is a win.
I would probably still want a larger size if they had it, with a deeper cup. But that is just me. More is more!
Tool is available on Etsy here, or ask your favourite glass tool store if they can carry it.
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