Saturday, January 14, 2017

Double Helix Melia

Double Helix Melia is a reduction glass. Double Helix says it is "a satin textured, iridescent luster glass."
They also say that is is related to Arke, Iris, and Iaso and that it has at least three types of luster effect: silver, iridescent, and a textured satin finish." 

They also say that super heating Melia will cause separation in the components, giving you striations and veining when reduced. I have observed that, but at this point, I can remember if it was with Iris or Melia - as I wasn't in testing mode at that time (i.e. writing things down.)

The unworked rod is a very attractive teal green, and the reduced items do seem to have a greenish overtone. 

 I do think it is prettier and easier to use than Iris - a little more colour to the reduction.

 Strongly backlit.

Only more usage will reveal if I continue to prefer it. 

The "textured satin finish" that they refer to - I have seen it once or twice - Usually when I am making something that I am about to encase, and so it gets encased and I don't get a chance to photograph it. Whether it would survive annealing - I don't know. I have always assumed not, but maybe I should not encase it next time I see it.

Thursday, January 12, 2017

Double Helix Iris - and Reduction Loss from Annealing

Double Helix Iris - a killer metallic lustre reduction glass.

You might remember that I have been speculating that I have been losing some of the reduction effect during annealing - so in this case - I left one of my little bits out of the kiln to see if there was a difference.

That unannealed piece is on the left, then the stub of the rod, and 4 annealed pieces.

You will note that the rod is so dense that it really looks black - just the barest smidge of a red purple shows - so make sure you don't store it next to your black, eh?

Here they are again -this time flipped over to show the other sides, still with the unannealed on the left, the others on the right.
 It is super easy to get good reduction on this glass. I found I got best results from cooling to not-glowing, and then reducing in the tip of the reduction candles, as opposed to in the blue part of the flame, past the candles.
They are pretty dramatic, although I rather prefer the blue and purple tones to the metallic olive.

But here is the kicker - this is the un-annealed piece from the left above - after going through an annealing cycle.

 And the other side.
 And from another angle.

And just one more. 

It has, in fact, lost it's purple and blue tones, to a large extent.

So - is it the temperature that I anneal at? The speed? The atmosphere in the kiln? What?

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Effetre 065 Metallic Black.

Ok - you've seen this before. Metallic Black. But I just found my stash of it and ... I still love this glass. Silky texture, muted rainbow hues, and effortless.

Going to integrate these into the "project" for sure.  Which if you don't know what that is, you can follow me, @therealdragonjools on instagram and find out.

Texture: Razor Tool

This tool is the classic razor tool and is designed for glass. I'm sure you've all ready figured this one out.

But I was so taken with this cross hatch pattern that I thought I would immortalize it here.

Nothing tricky about this - work fast and have enough of a heat base that you can get the whole thing done in one pass.

Make the diagonal impressions in one direction, and then do the ones at ninety degrees.

Looks upholstered, or quilted. Quilted glass. Interesting concept.


Sunday, January 08, 2017

Texture: Leather Tool - Dimples

Also not designed for glass - but works surprisingly well - tools for stamping leather.

Even the cheaper leather tools work great. I thought they might lose their plating - but so far - they have been just rocking it.

Friday, January 06, 2017

Texture on Glass: Large Wood Rasp

I've been playing with texturing the glass - using various items that were, by and large - not actually designed to be used with molten glass. For starters - this giant wood rasp - available at your local hardware for not very much at all - is nice because it gives you 2 textures and a flat and a curved surface to play with.

The easiest was to use it is to put the glass down, say on your torch marver, and mash it with this. Do it fast - the rasp heats up and sticks to the glass surprisingly quickly - especially given the volume of the metal.  Just press and release.

The larger of the textures gives you this.

Wednesday, January 04, 2017

Double Helix TerraNova

Terra Nova - this is probably Terra2 - judging from the label.

I understand that Terra Nova needs to be worked hot and then cooled, but I find it challenging to get it clear hot and retain some control - as it is then soupy.

Those don't look too bad - let's see them more like they would look without the studio lights.

OK - reasonably acceptable.

So what I did was - make a flat disk on the wire in clear. Heated the TerraNova to absolutely clear hot. Dripped it onto the clear - because at that point, dripping was all it would do - there was no control possible. Mashed it. Let it cool to not glowing. At which point it had gone dark, dark amber. Struck it gently - and let it cool. Repeat. Repeat. Fourth strike - as a reduction flame - above the candles. Take it out of the flame, let it cool while heating a gather of clear. Bang the clear down on top and mash to spread. Reheat enough to get the cuts into the glass.

I did make a particular point of not having any of the glass from the rod that was not heated to clear hot get onto the leaf. I made sure that all the TerraNova was clear as clear could be.

This one just got away from me. This is what I usually get. I think my attention wandered.
 You can see on the backs there is no trace of the purples and blues. Whatever is going on, it is a surface thing.

I dunno. I'll have to think on this.

Monday, January 02, 2017

TAG: Dalai Lotus

Here's what TAG has to say about Dalai Lotus:

Our Lotus recipe brings the Dalai Lama striking 104 into even more beautiful territory. Dalai Lotus rods range from opaque tan, to translucent amber, and, like any striking amber-purple they produce the amber-to-purple-to-blue transition.... but THEN they keep going! To green, and yellow and orange and magenta and violet.... and??? This recipe likes more heat than the regular Dalai recipe, both in the initial gather and in the repeated strikes. It also likes to be cooled much more before re-striking. In other words, this is a glass that really likes long, hot working and cool marvering. Encases well, but also keeps color well in the kiln, even if left un-encased. For best results, bring the gather to WHITE hot, then add Lotus to your bead base, cool until no longer glowing, and then – wait more! You should see the glass ‘blush’ amber. This is what will continue to strike. If you overstrike, you can reset Lotus by reheating back to transparent.

And these looked gorgeous going into the kiln. And what did I get out? Mud.

If I overexpose the photo - you can see that there is some pretty cool stuff going on, but unless the plan is to walk around in a spotlight all the time ...